PHILADELPHIA - Bistec con queso? Not at Geno's Steaks.

An English-only ordering policy has thrust one of Philadelphia's best-known cheesesteak joints into the national immigration debate.

Situated in a South Philadelphia immigrant neighborhood, Geno's _ which together with its chief rival, Pat's King of Steaks, forms the epicenter of an area described as "ground zero for cheesesteaks" _ has posted small signs telling customers, "This Is AMERICA: WHEN ORDERING `SPEAK ENGLISH.'"

"They don't know how lucky they are. All we're asking them to do is learn the English language," said Geno's owner Joseph Vento, 66. "We're out to help these people, but they've got to help themselves, too."

Vento, whose grandparents struggled to learn English after immigrating from Sicily in the 1920s, said he posted the sign about six months ago amid concerns over immigration reform and the increasing number of customers who could not order in English when they wanted Philly's gooey, greasy specialty _ fried steak, sliced or chopped, in a long roll, with cheese and fried onions.

Of course, it's not as if native Philadelphians speak the King's English either. A Philadelphian might order a cheesesteak by saying something like, "Yo, gimme a cheesesteak wit, will youse?" ("Wit," or "with," means with fried onions.) To which the counterman might reply: "Youse want fries widdat?"

The traditionally Italian community near Geno's has become more diverse over the decades. Immigrants from Asia and Latin America have moved in, joining longtime residents and young professionals seeking reasonably priced rowhouses. In the past 10 years, an estimated 15,000 to 20,000 Mexican immigrants _ many of them here illegally, community leaders say _ have settled in South Philly.

Vento said his staff is glad to help non-native speakers order in English and has never turned someone away because of a language barrier.

But the policy has "really upset a lot of a people," said Brad Baldia of Day Without An Immigrant, a coalition of immigrant groups. "For some people, I think we're just going to say, `Le gusta Pat's.'"

Juntos, a Hispanic neighborhood organization, said it plans to send people to Geno's to try to order in Spanish and may pursue court action, depending on what happens.

"His grandparents encountered the same racism and the same xenophobia," said Peter Bloom, the group's director. "Why would he begin that process over again?"

Vento said he has gotten plenty of criticism and threats. One person told him they hoped one his many neon signs flames out and burns the place down, he said. But he said he plans to hold his ground.

Customers placing orders on a recent morning seemed unfazed.

Angelica Marquez, 22 and originally from Puerto Rico, ordered in well-spoken English, but said some of her relatives struggle with the language. "They always come and just say `cheesesteak,'" Marquez said, adding that the policy "bothers her some" but not enough to keep her away.

When a non-English speaking customer showed up at the window a short time later, a clerk patiently coached him through the process. Eventually, both said "cheesesteak."

Vento, a short, fiery man with a ninth-grade education, arms covered in tattoos and a large diamond ring in his ear, also sells "freedom fries" to protest France's opposition to the Iraq war. He rails against Mumia Abu-Jamal, the black man who was convicted of killing police Officer Daniel Faulkner in 1981 and has become a cause celebre among some death penalty opponents. Memorials to Faulkner are posted at his shop.

Those who market the city, often using images of Geno's and other famous steak shops, are watching with concern.

"I certainly wouldn't want a national audience to think it represented all of the wonderful cheesesteak makers in the whole city," said Meryl Levitz, president and chief executive of the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corp. "This isn't representative of the Philadelphia attitude."

Competitors are seizing on the controversy.

Tony Luke's issued a statement saying it welcomes all customers "whether or not they speak a `wit' of English."

And a manager at Pat's, Kathy Smith, said of Geno's English-only policy: "That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard in my life. I'd rather listen to the Spanish than the foul language of the college students."
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As much as I hate spanish class...I'm not so sure about this one.

Are people from Philly just assholes?

Good for Geno's.

No shit. There's a difference between "trying to help people" and being an ignorant asshole. Is he going to turn away some lady's business because she says "queso" instead of "cheese?"

Where I grew up, the Irish and Italian kids were the most racist towards the black and Hispanic kids. Nothing like working class Italians to show you what racism is really all about.

Another reason why Geno's is shit. Shut the fuck up and grill my cheesesteak, you grease monkeys.

Calling Italians "grease monkeys" is racist. They prefer "goombahs".

I thought grease monkey was a derogatory term for mechanics.

Shit. Is that really a racial slur?

i think its in reference to their greasy slicked back hair

ive always known 'grease monkey' to mean mechanic. not derogatory, either.

there must not be many of those damn italians in nz

first of all, if i were working at a restaurant and a customer tried to order in anything but english (or sign language) i would not understand what the hell that customer wanted.

secondly and sort of off topic, this whole immigration reform thing is getting very very uncomfortable for me.

i don't think it is insulting to ask immigrants, legal or illegal, to learn english. i think it is the least they can do...especially if they are illegal...they can blend better that way, no?

but somehow, wanting immigrants to learn english is "intolerant" and "racist". i am not intolerant, i am not racist, it just makes sense to learn the language of the country in which you live.

but in the end it puts me at odds with the people of my political leanings, and it aligns me with freedom-fries-assholes like the one in this article.

I feel like that's his right. It's his buisness. And it's not racist - because any hispanic that can say 'cheesesteak' will get served.
He said in an interview, that he can't wait on a person that he can't understand. It's not fair to his employees, and it's not fair to the people in line behind the person.

Sure, he's an asshole, I'm not denying that. But if he wants to turn away buisness, that's his perogative. It's not as though they're out of luck if he won't serve them. They can easily walk across the street and point, grunt and pantomime a cheese steak over there.

He should put a sign saying “Only English speaking people are allowed”

LOL, I think he has one.

Sarcasm?

Anyone?

You know…the arrow thing….

this article made me...hungry

hungry or not I wonder how would people react if they are treated this way

"Only spanish speaking allowed"

I'm sorry that my joke above created so much confusion. I'm aware of the typical usage of the term "grease monkey", and for the record, I also understand that Italians don't like being called goombahs.